Grading system for ice and mixed climbing.
If you've ever browsed through Aventura Alpina 's portfolio of high-altitude expeditions, you've surely come across abbreviations like AD+, D , or M4 . For those accustomed only to trekking or the Brazilian rock climbing grading system (such as 4th, 5th, or 6th grade), these internationally standardized letters and numbers can be more confusing than clarifying.
Understanding each one is fundamental to safely planning your next summits, within your current capabilities.
In this article we will demystify the international grading system for ice and mixed climbing using our own routes in the Cordillera Blanca and the Alps as practical examples of each terrain.
1. Alpine Ice Climbing - French grading
The school is a world reference in both ice and rock climbing grading. They were pioneers in this system, aiming to classify routes by the "complete package": altitude, duration, objective hazards (such as crevasses and avalanches), the level of effort required on average and especially at the crux (most difficult section). Ice grading:
F ( Facile / Fácil): Glacier hike, gentle slope. Ex: Aconcagua via the Horcones and 360 routes.
PD ( Peu Difficile / Slightly Difficult): Some simple technical sections, use of rope and crampons is necessary. Ex: Crossing the 4 Refuges in Patagonia, Orizaba in Mexico.
AD ( Assez Difficile / Somewhat Difficult): Sustained inclines on snow or ice, beginning to require good technique and experience. Ex: Tronador in Paso de Las Nubes, Yanapaccha in Peru.
D ( Difficult ): Sustained and serious technical climbing on ice/rock, high exposure. Ex: Alpamayo in the Peruvian Cordillera Blanca, Artesonraju (D+), Matterhorn via the Schmid route (D+).
TD ( Très Difficile / Very Difficult): Very long, remote, and highly technical routes.
ED ( Extrêmement Difficile / Extremely Difficult): The pinnacle of world mountaineering.
Note: The + or - signs are used to refine the degree (e.g., AD+ is slightly more difficult than AD, but not quite a D).
For ice climbing there is also the international UIAA system, but it is less widespread than the French system, so I will not go into detail about it.
3. The Mixed Climbing Scale (M - Mixed)
I consider this the most challenging type of climbing there is. It involves a level of commitment, mental control, proficiency in all types of terrain, and planning for long expeditions that sets it apart from the rest. It's an alternating terrain of rock, ice, and snow. To overcome these sections, we use technical crampons, double boots, climbing shoes in some cases, and ice axes for both ice and cracks, a technique known as dry-tooling .
The M scale ranges today from M1 to M16 :
M1 to M3: Low slope terrain. Little technical use of tools.
M4 to M6: The terrain becomes vertical. Requires technical dry-tooling movements on rock holds, often alternating with strikes on thin ice.
M7 to M16: The highest level of the discipline. It involves completely horizontal rock ceilings (caves), tiny holds, and extreme physical strength.
And the WI (Water Ice) System
The abbreviation WI stands for Water Ice . The difference from the French alpine scale is that it does NOT consider the "complete package" (altitude, duration, objective hazards), only the crux of the route. Used in sport climbing and to illustrate the crux of long alpine climbs. The scale ranges from WI1 to WI7 (with some discussion regarding higher levels in extreme conditions), defined... due to the combination of the wall's slope , the consistency of the ice , and the ease of installing protective measures .
WI1: Very flat ice with a gentle slope. You can climb almost on foot, without needing to use ice axes.
WI2: Firm ice with an incline of up to 60 degrees. Excellent for beginners.
WI3: The incline reaches 70 or 80 degrees, with short sections that are completely upright (vertical). It also offers good places to rest your arms and insert screws.
WI4: Long vertical walls (close to 90 degrees). Requires strong arms and good technique, as resting points begin to decrease.
WI5: A very difficult and tiring climb. It consists of long, completely vertical sections (90 degrees) on ice that can be thin or fragile, making protection difficult.
WI6: Extremely technical ice, almost without rest, potentially reaching the ceiling (suspended ice) and very fragile.
WI7: The pinnacle of physical and psychological difficulty. Extremely thin ice, pillars that can break, and where it's nearly impossible to place secure protection.
Degrees in Practice: Examples from Our Portfolio
To help you visualize how these acronyms translate in the real world, here's how we've broken down three of the classic itineraries we operate in the Cordillera Blanca, Peru:
Yanapaccha (5,460m) — The Perfect Training Camp
French Graduation: AD- (Something Difficult, Lower)
In practice: Yanapaccha is our great high-altitude classroom. Its route does not present mixed difficulties (rock), focusing purely on snow and ice slopes with moderate inclines (up to 65° at the top). It is ideal for those who already practice low-level high-altitude mountaineering such as Aconcagua, Everest BC, Damavand, Cerro Plata, but wish to enter the world of vertical alpine climbing.
Alpamayo (5,947m) — 400m of vertical climbing
French Graduation: D (Difficult)
In practice: Considered one of the most aesthetically pleasing mountains on the planet, Alpamayo demands an impressively technical climb. It consists of approximately 400 meters of continuous ice gully, with inclines ranging from 70° to 85°. Depending on the year and weather conditions, the ice in the gully can thin out and expose the bedrock, requiring the climber to master mixed sections ( M4 ) at almost 6,000 meters altitude.
Artesonraju (6,025m) — The Technical Pyramid
French Graduation: D+ (Superior Difficulty)
In practice: The famous mountain that inspired the Paramount logo is a long and exposed challenge. Its north ridge, with numerous crevasses and few expeditions per season, makes the climb more challenging and inhospitable than its neighbor Alpamayo in the Peruvian Cordillera Blanca. There are just over 10 total expeditions per year on average, an exclusive route for AA among Brazilian agencies.
Matterhorn (4,478m) — The world's greatest rivalry
French Graduation: D+ (Superior Difficulty)
In practice: One of the birthplaces of technical ice mountaineering, the Matterhorn in Switzerland is a dream for every serious practitioner of the sport. The Schmid route was the stage for one of the greatest modern disputes between Ueli Steck and Dan Arnold for its ascent record. A mixed climb of great complexity.
What's your next step?
Understanding the international grading system removes the "mystery" from planning and helps you build a solid progression. Nobody starts at Alpamayo; the right journey involves consolidating the foundation, taking practical ice courses, and gradually progressing through the challenges.
"In mountaineering, you don't take an elevator, but rather the stairs, step by step." Respect this popular saying and continue safely in pursuit of your dreams.
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