Excellent physical condition

Ice Climbing Course

For this itinerary, we require that the participant be a climber and have completed the course with Aventura Alpina. If the course was completed at another institution, proof of meeting the minimum requirements must be provided via video.

Prior experience in vertical ice climbing.

This is a high-level itinerary. Prior experience in technical vertical climbing on ice and rock is mandatory.

DAY 0 (before the expedition) : Zermatt, Switzerland (1,620m)

Meeting point in Zermatt, Switzerland, the expedition's base city. The nearest international airport is in Zurich. Meals and transportation not included. Hotel accommodation included.

DAY 1: Zermatt (1,620m) – Riffelhorn (2,930m) - Zermatt (1,620m)
As an acclimatization strategy to the altitude and local climate, a moderate climb on a famous mountain near Zermatt, with a privileged view of the main objective: the Matterhorn. The chosen route will be the Egg (4th grade V E2 200m). After reaching the summit, return to Zermatt for overnight stay. Accommodation and breakfast included.

Estimated Time : 4-6 hours

DAY 2: Zermatt (1,620m) – Hörnli Refuge (3,260m)
Accessible with all climbing equipment to the Hörnli refuge, a masonry structure with beds and heating. Climbers from all over the world meet and exchange experiences. A unique experience in one of the most historic mountaineering refuges. Accommodation, breakfast, lunch and dinner included.

Accumulated elevation gain : 700 m

Distance : 4.13 km

Estimated Time : 4-6 hours

DAY 3: Hörnli Refuge (3,260m) - base bivouac for the Schmid route (3,900m)
Approach to the base of the Schimid route for overnight stay and a faster start to the climb the following day. Overnight stay in a sleeping bag and sleeping mat. Breakfast, lunch and dinner included.

Accumulated elevation gain : 650 m

Distance : 2 km

Estimated Time : 2-4 hours

DAY 4: Hörnli Refuge (3,260m) - Matterhorn (4,478m) - Hörnli Refuge (3,260m)

Wake up at 2:00 AM and start the climb at 3:30 AM on one of the most important routes in mountaineering. Opened in 1931 by the Schmid brothers, it continues to be a challenge for great mountaineers to this day. It was no coincidence that Ueli Steck and Dan Arnold chose this route to determine who is the fastest man in the world to reach the summit of the Matterhorn. Descent via the popular Hörnli ridge back to the initial refuge . Accommodation, breakfast, lunch and dinner included.

Accumulated elevation : -750 m

Distance : 12 km

Estimated Time : 4-5 hours

DAY 5: Extra Day
For acclimatization if necessary or in bad weather. Accommodation, breakfast, lunch and dinner included.

Accumulated elevation : 0 m

Distance : 0 km

Estimated Time : 0 hours

DAY 6: Extra Day
For acclimatization if necessary or in bad weather. Accommodation, breakfast, lunch and dinner included.

Accumulated elevation : 0 m

Distance : 0 km

Estimated Time : 0 hours

DAY 7: Hörnli Refuge - Zermatt
Return hike to Zermatt and end of the expedition. Accommodation not included. Breakfast included.

Accumulated elevation : -700 m

Distance : 4.13 km

Estimated Time : 4-6 hours

CLOTHING

Polyamide T-shirt - 3 to 4 units

For use during hiking. Prioritize long-sleeved shirts to protect from the sun and scratches. NEVER USE COTTON SHIRTS, as this type of fabric dries very slowly compared to synthetic materials.

Thin thermal base layer shirt - 1 unit

These are very thin, tight-fitting clothes that lie completely close to the body. This feature increases heat retention. They will be used to withstand the frigid nights at altitude, in camp, and on summit day.

Fleece blouse 200 - 1 unit

Fleece is a type of fabric with high warmth, low weight, and good compression at an affordable price. If you want to invest in an even lighter and more compressible material, but much more expensive, opt for goose down jackets. But be careful! There are several types of down jackets, and many are NOT SUITABLE FOR OUTDOOR SPORTS. For more information, please contact us.

400 fleece blouse - 1 unit

It can be replaced with a medium-weight down blouse.

Goose down jacket - 1 unit

High-quality down starting at 800 cuins, with a minimum weight of 80 g/m². Available for rent in the base city.

Thick fleece base layer pants 400 - 1 unit

It will be used at the campsite and on summit day.

Waterproof windproof pants - 1 unit

Opt for those made with breathable fabric.

Waterproof gaiters - 1 unit

Used on snowy days to prevent snow from getting into boots. They must be specifically designed for mountaineering. They can be rented in the base town.

Underwear - 5 to 10 units

Approach boot - 1 unit

Ideally, the boots should be specifically designed for mountaineering, with a good sole (e.g., Vibram), water-resistant, high-top to prevent ankle sprains, and preferably breathable. If purchased new, they should be broken in before the trip.

Double boot - 1 unit

100% waterproof boots for use in snow, with reinforced heating to prevent frostbite on the toes. Available for rent in the base city.

Crocks - 1 unit

Thin liner stockings - 2 to 3 units

Opt for technical socks specifically designed for mountaineering. They should be highly breathable, which helps to minimize contact between your foot and sweat, one of the three factors that cause blisters.

Medium sock - 2 units

Thick socks - 1 unit

It will only be used at the campsite.

Lorpen thick synthetic fleece socks - 1 unit

Specifically designed for snow activities, these are highly thermal and breathable. They will only be used on summit day.

Cap - 1 unit

Opt for fleece models.

Balaclava - 1 unit

Bandana or expedition-style cap - 1 unit

Opt for a bandana made with UV-protective fabric, as it's more versatile and can withstand extreme environmental conditions.

Thin liner glove - 1 unit

Made of synthetic material.

Medium windproof glove - 1 unit

Thick waterproof glove - 1 unit

It will be used in camps and on summit day. Opt for models that maintain maximum dexterity for handling carabiners, belay devices, and rope.

CAMPING

Sleeping bag -10ºC (comfort) - 1 unit

It can be rented in the base city.

Thermal insulating mattress - 1 unit

Preferably choose inflatable or closed-cell models, both with a heating factor greater than R4. They can be rented in your base city.

Pillow (optional) - 1 unit

Use those specifically designed for camping, which are smaller and lighter than household ones. A shirt can be used as a substitute.

Pee bottle - 1 unit

It may seem silly, but when you feel the urge to urinate in the middle of the night, when you're warm and comfortable inside your sleeping bag, leaving the tent will be a terrible ordeal. You'll have to put on several layers of clothing again to withstand the intense cold. Men can use a wide-mouthed canteen. Women should use a specific funnel that facilitates the action.

Hand warmer - 4 to 10 units

If you want to avoid getting cold at all costs, we suggest bringing hand and foot warmers, also known as hand warmers. These are a mixture of iron, water, and salt that, upon contact with oxygen, triggers a chemical reaction that releases heat, keeping hands and feet at an approximate temperature of 40ºC for up to 6 hours.

ACCESSORIES

100L Duffle Bag - 1 unit

Your non-hiking belongings will be transported by mules. They must be in highly resistant and waterproof backpacks. These can be rented in the base town.

40-50L assault backpack - 1 unit

To carry items for the approach trail such as snacks, water, shirts, gloves and devices, and to carry sleeping bags, sleeping pads and summit gear to the high camps.

Backpack rain cover - 1 unit

Headlamp - 2 units

One will be a reserve.

Lithium spare battery pack - 1 unit

On cold nights at -10ºC, the battery discharges quickly. Only lithium batteries will last the entire trip.

Cat 4 sunglasses - 1 unit

An essential item to make your trip more comfortable. Radiation at altitude is higher than at sea level, so protect yourself!

Pocket knife - 1 unit

Trekking poles - 1 pair

Some people don't like them, but that's due to lack of practice. The benefit, when used correctly, is a reduction of up to 30% in the impact on the knees, since the effort of walking is being distributed between the arms and especially the shoulders. Avoid those with screw-type or automatic locking mechanisms, as they are less durable.

Crampons - 1 pair

If you buy one, opt for models specifically designed for vertical climbing, such as the Petzl Lynx . It can be rented in your base city.

Technical ice axe - 1 pair

It can be rented in the base city.

A dream for every serious mountaineer, the ascent of this legendary cradle of high-level mountaineering will be via the classic Shmid route on the north face of the mountain, the scene of one of the greatest contemporary disputes over its ascent record between Ueli Steck and Dani Arnold.

INCLUDED

Two base city stays
Transportation in and out of the mountain city base.
1 Brazilian lead guide in Portuguese, English, and Spanish (up to 5 participants)
1 English-speaking guide (for groups of 6 or more participants)
Kitchen equipment
Shared climbing equipment (ropes, ice screws, quickdraws, belay devices)
Breakfast days 1 to 7
Dinner on days 3 to 6
Trail snacks, days 3 to 7
Assistance with purchasing and renting equipment before the trip.
First aid kit for collective use.
Online satellite tracking

NOT INCLUDED

Air
Ground transportation to base city
Meals in the base city (except for hotel breakfast)
Personal climbing equipment (helmet, harness, carabiners, cords, belay device, single rope, climbing shoes)
Personal glacier equipment (ice axes, crampons, double boots)
Travel insurance and rescue

1/1

MATTERHORN

CLIMBING

The greatest classic of world mountaineering, via the Schmid route.

FAQs

Do I need prior high-altitude mountaineering experience for this itinerary?

Yes, it is mandatory given the high level of technical skill required.

I already practice high-altitude mountaineering. Should I take an ice climbing course?

It depends on which safety procedures you are proficient in and how deeply you would like to learn them. Another decision criterion is whether or not future expeditions require you to have completed the course.

Is the rope team leader Brazilian?

Yes, André Perlatti is the rope team leader for this expedition.

What is the minimum and maximum number of participants for this expedition?

Minimum 1 participant and maximum 3. In the case of more than one participant, it is possible to hire a private rope guide for an extra fee.

Do I need to have all the climbing and glacier equipment?

Not necessary, all climbing equipment is included in the price. Glacier equipment can be rented from a partner store in the base city of the itinerary.

What are the possible payment methods for itineraries and courses priced in dollars or euros?

Payment can be made in cash or via PIX (Brazilian instant payment system), divided into however many installments the client and AA define in the contract, provided that the total payment is settled up to 15 days before the start date of the itinerary. Payments made in Brazilian reais will be converted at the exchange rate of the day, considering the rate of the Confidence exchange house in Jundiaí.

I am interested in this expedition

MATTERHORN

CLIMBING

The greatest classic of world mountaineering, via the Schmid route.

FAQs

Do I need prior high-altitude mountaineering experience for this itinerary?

I already practice high-altitude mountaineering. Should I take an ice climbing course?

Is the rope team leader Brazilian?

What is the minimum and maximum number of participants for this expedition?

Do I need to have all the climbing and glacier equipment?

What are the possible payment methods for itineraries and courses priced in dollars or euros?

DISCOVER OUR NATIONAL TREKKING OPTIONS