ARTESONRAJU
EXPEDITION
Paramount Pictures' mountain in the Peruvian Cordillera Blanca.
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Rock Climbing Course I (basic)
If it has not been carried out with the Alpine Adventure, a practical test will be applied to evaluate the following concepts: double 8 knot for tying, handling of ATC and semi-automatic brakes, assembly of extended rappel with autobloc backup knot.
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Ice Climbing Course I (basic)
If it has not been done with the Alpine Adventure, prior knowledge of glacier crossing techniques, placement of crampons and use of a support ice axe will be required.
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Good physical condition
With evaluation approved by a doctor and physical educator.
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Physics: very high
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Technique: high TD FRA
Numerous caves, unstable and uneven terrain with vertical ice climbing sections define the climb as graded TD (very difficult) on the French scale.
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From July 16th to August 1st, 2027.
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1 (one) person starting from US$ 5,590 (without extra acclimatization package)
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2 (two) or 3 (three) people starting from US$ 3,990 per person (without extra acclimatization package)
CLOTHING
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Polyamide T-shirt - 3 to 4 units
For use during hiking. Prioritize long-sleeved shirts to protect from the sun and scratches. NEVER USE COTTON SHIRTS, as this type of fabric dries very slowly compared to synthetic materials.
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Thin thermal base layer shirt - 1 unit
These are very thin, tight-fitting clothes that lie completely close to the body. This feature increases heat retention. They will be used to withstand the frigid nights at altitude, in camp, and on summit day.
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Fleece blouse 200 - 1 unit
Fleece is a type of fabric with high warmth, low weight, and good compression at an affordable price. If you want to invest in an even lighter and more compressible material, but much more expensive, opt for goose down jackets. But be careful! There are several types of down jackets, and many are NOT SUITABLE FOR OUTDOOR SPORTS. For more information, please contact us.
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400 fleece blouse - 1 unit
It can be replaced with a medium-weight down blouse.
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Goose down jacket - 1 unit
High-quality down feathers starting at 800 cuins, with a minimum weight of 80 g/m². Available for rent in the base city.
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Thick fleece base layer pants 400 - 1 unit
It will be used at the campsite and on summit day.
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Waterproof windproof pants - 1 unit
Opt for those made with breathable fabric.
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Waterproof gaiters - 1 unit
Used on snowy days to prevent snow from getting into boots. They must be specifically designed for mountaineering. They can be rented in the base town.
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Anorak - 1 unit
This is the most important item in your backpack because it's the primary protection against hypothermia in the mountains. It's essential that it's water-resistant and preferably breathable, meaning it allows sweat vapor to escape without letting rainwater or snow in.
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Pants - 2 units
It can be a second-skin type or made of synthetic material with high drying capacity.
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Thin base layer pants - 1 unit
To withstand the frigid nights at altitude. It will only be used at camp and on summit day.
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Thick fleece base layer pants 200 - 1 unit
It will be used at the campsite and on summit day.
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Underwear - 5 to 10 units
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Approach boot - 1 unit
Ideally, the boots should be specifically designed for mountaineering, with a good sole (e.g., Vibram), water-resistant, high-top to prevent ankle sprains, and preferably breathable. If purchased new, they should be broken in before the trip.
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Double boot - 1 unit
100% waterproof boots for use in snow, with reinforced heating to prevent frostbite on the toes. Available for rent in the base city.
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Crocks - 1 unit
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Thin liner stockings - 2 to 3 units
Opt for technical socks specifically designed for mountaineering. They should be highly breathable, which helps to minimize contact between your foot and sweat, one of the three factors that cause blisters.
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Medium sock - 2 units
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Thick socks - 1 unit
It will only be used at the campsite.
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Lorpen thick synthetic fleece socks - 1 unit
Specifically designed for snow activities, these are highly thermal and breathable. They will only be used on summit day.
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Cap - 1 unit
Opt for fleece models.
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Balaclava - 1 unit
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Bandana or expedition-style cap - 1 unit
Opt for a bandana made with UV-protective fabric, as it's more versatile and can withstand extreme environmental conditions.
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Thin liner glove - 1 unit
Made of synthetic material.
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Medium windproof glove - 1 unit
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Thick waterproof glove - 1 unit
It will be used in camps and on summit day. Opt for models that maintain maximum dexterity for handling carabiners, belay devices, and rope.
CAMPING
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Sleeping bag -10ºC (comfort) - 1 unit
It can be rented in the base city.
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Thermal insulating mattress - 1 unit
Preferably choose inflatable or closed-cell models, both with a heating factor greater than R4. They can be rented in your base city.
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Pillow (optional) - 1 unit
Use those specifically designed for camping, which are smaller and lighter than household ones. A shirt can be used as a substitute.
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Pee bottle - 1 unit
It may seem silly, but when you feel the urge to urinate in the middle of the night, when you're warm and comfortable inside your sleeping bag, leaving the tent will be a terrible ordeal. You'll have to put on several layers of clothing again to withstand the intense cold. Men can use a wide-mouthed canteen. Women should use a specific funnel that facilitates the action.
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Hand warmer - 4 to 10 units
If you want to avoid getting cold at all costs, we suggest bringing hand and foot warmers, also known as hand warmers. These are a mixture of iron, water, and salt that, upon contact with oxygen, triggers a chemical reaction that releases heat, keeping hands and feet at an approximate temperature of 40ºC for up to 6 hours.
ACCESSORIES
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100L Duffle Bag - 1 unit
Your non-hiking belongings will be transported by mules. They must be in highly resistant and waterproof backpacks. These can be rented in the base town.
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50-70L cargo backpack - 1 unit
To carry items for the approach trail such as snacks, water, shirts, gloves and devices, and to carry sleeping bags, sleeping pads, summit clothes, crampons, ice axes and climbing equipment to the high camp.
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Backpack rain cover - 1 unit
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Headlamp - 2 units
One will be a reserve.
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Lithium spare battery pack - 1 unit
On cold nights at -10ºC the battery discharges quickly. Only lithium batteries will last the entire trip.
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Cat 4 sunglasses - 1 unit
An essential item to make your trip more comfortable. Radiation at altitude is greater than at sea level, so protect yourself!
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Pocket knife - 1 unit
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Trekking poles - 1 pair
Some people don't like them, but this is due to lack of practice. The benefit, when used correctly, is a reduction of up to 30% in the impact on the knees, since you will be sharing the effort of walking with your arms and especially your shoulders. Avoid those with screw-type or automatic locks, as they are less resistant.
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Crampons - 1 pair
If you buy one, opt for models specifically for vertical climbing, such as the Petzl Lynx . It can be rented in the base city.
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Technical ice axe - 1 pair
Can be rented in the base city.
INCLUDED
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Stay in Huaraz (1 night pre-expedition and one night post-expedition)
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Transportation in and out of the mountain from Lima (land)
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1 Brazilian leader guide in Portuguese, English and Spanish (up to 03 participants)
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1 auxiliary guide in Spanish for every two people (from 04 participants)
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All basic safety equipment (harness, ropes, carabiners, helmet, brakes, straps)
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Mules for transport between camps for up to 15kg per person
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Tents and thermal insulation in the camps
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Kitchen equipment
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Shit tube for collective use
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Breakfast days 1 to 10
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Lunch days 1 to 9
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Dinner days 1 to 9
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1 Captain Jack snack
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Small trail snack days 1 to 9
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Assistance in purchasing and renting equipment before the trip
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First aid kit for collective use
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Online satellite tracking
NOT INCLUDED
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Flights to Lima, Peru (roundtrip)
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Transportation in Lima to and from the airport
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Food in Lima and Huaraz (except hotel breakfast)
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Personal items: sleeping bag, clothes, shoes, ice axes and crampons (possibility of renting glacier items in Huaraz)
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Mandatory travel and rescue insurance
IMPORTANT! For this itinerary, it is essential to start day 1 already acclimatized to the 5,000-foot altitude range. We offer an optional extra acclimatization package.
DAY 0: Huaraz (3,052m)
Meet in Huaraz in the afternoon to go to the store where you can rent equipment that you have previously booked. Overnight stay in a hotel included. Meals not included.
DAY 1: Huaraz (3,052m) - Cashapampa (2,964m) - Llamacorral (3,750m)
Breakfast at the hotel at 7:00 am for the 2.5-hour transfer to the start of the trail in the village of Cashapampa. After organizing what will be transported by the mule drivers and meeting the support team for the expedition, we will begin the trek around noon to our first camp, Llamacorral (3,750 m). Breakfast, lunch and dinner included.
Accumulated elevation since Cashapampa : 790 m
Distance : 10 km
Uptime: 4 – 6h
DAY 2: Llamacorral (3,750m) - BC (4,250m)
On a route with gentle elevation gain, we will pass through the Quebrada de Santa Cruz valley to the Taullipampa base camp. Breakfast, lunch and dinner included.
Accumulated elevation : 500 m
Distance : 15 km
Uptime: 6 – 8h
DAY 3: BC (4,250m) - Morrena campsite (4,950m)
Today we will climb to the last camp before the summit. We will climb to almost 5,000 m above sea level, have a small snack to spend as much time as possible at altitude, leave our glacier equipment and descend back to base camp for the night. Breakfast and dinner included.
Accumulated elevation : 700 m
Distance : 5 km
Uptime: 5 - 6h
DAY 4: Rest day
Rest day and spontaneous acclimatization at Morrena camp. We will take the day to eat and hydrate as much as possible before the summit attempt. Breakfast, lunch and dinner included.
Accumulated elevation : 0 m
Distance : 0 km
Uptime: 0h
DAY 5: Morrena Camp (4,950m) - SUMMIT (6,025m) - Morrena Camp (4,950 m)
The most anticipated day of the entire expedition. We will begin our final approach to the base of the Artesonraju climbing route at 12:30 at dawn. From this point, we will put all the knowledge we have acquired into practice on a long, vertical climb of 400m with an average gradient of between 70 and 90º. After finishing the endless rappels from the summit, we will return to the Morrena camp for the night. Breakfast and dinner included.
Accumulated elevation : 1,025 m
Distance : 5 km
Uptime: 14 - 16h
DAY 6: Morrena Camp (4,950m) - BC (4,250m)
Descent from Morrena Camp to Base Camp. Breakfast and dinner included.
Accumulated elevation : -700 m
Distance : 5 km
Uptime: 3 - 4h
DAY 7: BC (4,250m) - Cashapampa (2,964m) - Huaraz (3,052m)
Last day of trekking until the start of the trail in the village of Cashapampa. After arriving around 2:00 pm, we will transfer back to the city of Huaraz. Overnight stay included. Breakfast included.
Accumulated elevation : -1,300 m
Distance : 25 km
Uptime: 6 - 8h
DAY 8: Extra day
In case of bad weather on summit day. Breakfast, lunch and dinner included.
Accumulated elevation : 0 m
Distance : 0 km
Uptime: 0h
DAY 9: Huaraz - Lima
Return to place of origin . Breakfast included.
The Cordillera Blanca in Peru attracts climbers from all over the world due to its different terrain when compared to the Bolivian or Chilean/Argentine Andes. Pyramidal mountains with steep faces make the climbs much more scenic and technical. Artesonraju, also known as the "Paramount Pictures mountain", is a dream come true for every climber. At 6,025m above sea level, it is an extremely difficult experience, requiring minimum preparation and requirements.
To begin this itinerary, all team members must be acclimatized to altitudes of 5,500m . This will substantially increase the chances of summiting. As a standard acclimatization package, we offer an ascent of Yanapaccha (5,560m above sea level) with an overnight stay at around 5,000m. Other options include traditional rock climbing on La Esfinge or other 5,000m peaks in the Cordillera Blanca. Please inquire for more details.
DAY 1: Huaraz (3,052m) - Wilcacocha (3,750m) - Huaraz (3,052m)
Breakfast at the hotel and departure by transfer at 9:00 AM to the start of the trail. It will be a relaxed day, as part of our acclimatization strategy. After reaching the lagoon, taking photos and having a light snack, we will return to the hotel in Huaraz for overnight stay. Breakfast included.
Accumulated elevation gain : 600 m
Distance : 7 km
Activity Time: 3-5 hours
DAY 2: Huaraz (3,052m) - Parón lagoon (4,155m) or Churup (4,450m) - Huaraz (3,052m)
Breakfast at the hotel and departure by transfer at 9:00 AM to the start of the trail. An important stage of our cycle, it will be fundamental to improving the team's night at the first high-altitude camp. After a snack amidst the incredible scenery, return to the hotel in Huaraz for overnight stay. Breakfast included.
Accumulated elevation gain : 650 m
Distance : 8 km
Activity Time: 4-6 hours
DAY 3: Huaraz (3,052m) - Llaganuco valley (4,530m) - Morrena Camp (4,800m)
With our initial acclimatization cycle completed, we'll continue for 2.5 hours to the Llaganuco Valley (4,530m), the beginning of the approach to Yanapaccha. After organizing the mule drivers' transport and meeting the expedition's support team, we'll begin the trek around noon to our first camp, Morrena (4,900m). Breakfast, lunch, and dinner are included.
Accumulated elevation : 350m
Distance : 3 km
Uptime: 2 – 3h
DAY 4: Rest at Morrena camp (4,800m)
After a first night at the advanced camp, we'll have a rest day to recharge our batteries before the summit the following morning. This is part of the gradual acclimatization cycle. Breakfast, lunch, and dinner are included.
Accumulated elevation : 0 m
Distance : 0 km
Uptime: 0h
DAY 5: Camp Morrena (4,900m) - Yanapaccha summit (5,460m) - Camp Morrena (4,900m) - Huaraz (3,052m)
We'll wake up at dawn to head to the summit of Yanapaccha (5,460m). It will be an exhausting day, as we'll be completing the acclimatization cycle. The trail includes cravassis, seracs, and an ice wall with an average angle of 60° and a length of 90m. Once reached, the expedition will begin rappelling back to Morrena Camp, Llaganuco Valley, and Huaraz. Breakfast and lunch are included.
Accumulated elevation : 600 m
Distance : 7 km
Uptime: 9 - 12h
EXTRA VALUE ACCLIMATION PACKAGE with hotel stays in Huaraz and transportation Huaraz-Yanapaccha-Huaraz:
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1 (one) person US$ 4,590
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2 (two) or more people US$ 2,590 per person
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Glacier equipment (support axe, technical axe, crampon, double boot, ice protection)
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Glacier crossing techniques
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Vertical ascension techniques
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Self-braking when falling
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Alpine rigging
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Ice anchors
Rock Climbing Course I (basic)
If it has not been carried out with Aventura Alpina, a test will be appliedpractice in order to evaluate the following concepts: double knot 8, handling of ATC and semi-automatic brakes, assembly of extended rappel with backup autobloc knot.
Good physical condition
With evaluation approved by a doctor and physical educator.
FAQs
Do I need prior high-altitude mountaineering experience for this itinerary?
I already practice high-altitude mountaineering. Should I take an ice climbing course?
Is the rope team leader Brazilian?
What is the minimum and maximum number of participants for this expedition?
Do I need to have all the climbing and glacier equipment?
What are the possible payment methods for itineraries and courses priced in dollars or euros?
