FREY: a traditional climbing paradise in Patagonia
- @andreperlatti
- 2 days ago
- 4 min read
Wall climbers have certainly heard of this area located near Bariloche, in Argentine Patagonia. Its fame dates back to the 1970s, when the first routes began to be opened and publicized worldwide. The combination of magnificent landscapes, short approaches from the refuge, rock quality with a predominance of cracks, and accessible grades has made this one of the main climbing areas in South America.
HOW TO GET THERE
The easiest way is via Bariloche airport, which is located 25 minutes from the city center. From there you can take a bus (line 20) or private transport (Uber or remisse) to Cerro Catedral, the city's ski resort. The trail to the Frey refuge starts to the left of the parking lot entrance, going up a short flight of stairs.
There are two trail options: the traditional one "below," skirting the left side of the Cerro Catedral ridge, or accessing it via the ski slope (without snow in summer), known as "el filo" or ridge. I always opt for the traditional route because it has a gentler cumulative ascent, since we climb heavily with all our equipment. It's approximately a 4-hour climb along the beautiful Lake Gutierrez. A few years ago it was possible to hire muleteers to carry the equipment, but Nahuel Huapi National Park has prohibited this practice due to the environmental impact it causes.
To access the refuge, whether for trekking or climbing, it is mandatory to complete the trekking registration on the Nahuel Huapi National Park website or the CAB website: www.nahuelhuapi.gov.ar or www.clubandino.org/registro-de-trekking .
WHERE TO STAY, the Refuge
Once at the refuge, accommodation can be in tents in the designated camping area or in beds within the refuge. Both require prior booking, which can only be done 3 days before the expedition via the refuge's link: https://refugiofreybariloche.com/ .
The refuge is maintained by CAB, Clube Alpino Bariloche, one of the oldest and most organized in South America. There is a fee for sleeping in a bed, updated annually, but camping is free; just bring your own tent, sleeping mat, and sleeping bag.
The venue has a restaurant where you can have breakfast and dinner, as well as some other menu items such as empanadas and pizzas, always by prior reservation directly at the counter. Drinks (including beer and wine) are also available. Use of the indoor tables during peak hours is only permitted for those who have reserved one of these meals. For those who wish to cook, stoves are only allowed in the outdoor area, but meals can be prepared in the side annex which has tables, a sink, and a tap. There are restrooms with toilets and taps available to everyone at no extra cost.
THE CLIMB
There are over 300 routes on dozens of spires, cliffs, and rock faces in the surrounding area. At the refuge, there's an updated version of Rolando Garibotti's topo available for reading in the restaurant, but as with any topo, I recommend purchasing your copy on-site to support the author after the arduous work that will remain for generations.
The routes are graded according to the French grading system and range from 4th to 9th Brazilian difficulty. Due to local culture, geology, and ethics, protection is mostly mobile, often even at belay stations. Rolando Gariboti himself, in the latest version of his book, comments on the evolution of the sport in the face of new generations of climbers, who are mostly more cautious and less inclined to take great risks. There is much talk about "plating" at least the belay stations to facilitate abandonment. This is a controversial subject that is increasingly being discussed in mountaineering associations and clubs worldwide.
However basic it may seem, always carry a rain jacket and thermal shirt in your backpack, as well as a headlamp, enough water and food for the duration of the activity. Even though it has a milder climate than Chaltén, for example, the area is also located in Patagonia, a region famous for its strong and icy winds.
REQUIRED EQUIPMENT
Bring at least 2 sets of camalots from .0 to 5 and a set of nuts. With this, you will be able to comfortably climb the great classics of the region. As examples of the most frequently climbed routes, there are Sifuentes Weber (VI), Lost Finger (VIIa) and Fissura and Diedro de Jim (VI) on Aguja Frey, Nhaca Nhaca Crunch Crunch (VI) and Del Techo (VIb) on Abuello, Del Diedro (5 sup) on M2, normal do Campanille (VIb) and Clemensó (VI) on Aguja Principal. These are just a few highlights, but the options easily exceed 20 days of climbing in the area.
SEASON
The region is cleared for
Frey is undoubtedly one of my favorite areas in my heart, thanks to all the factors mentioned in this article. The energy of the place, teeming with hikers and climbers from all over the world, is contagious. Every year, Aventura Alpina organizes an expedition there, either traversing the 4 refuges or for climbing. For more information about these routes, access the links:
Frey Climbing : https://www.aventuraalpina.com.br/escalada-frey
Crossing 4 refuges : https://www.aventuraalpina.com.br/4-refugios
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