50 Classic Routes in Brazil: the country's main rock climbing itinerary.
The 50 Classic Routes of Brazil is a selection of the most emblematic rock climbing routes in our territory, compiled by authors Flávio Daflon and Cinthia Daflon. This 2017 compendium was inspired by the iconic North American concept of the book "Fifty Classic Climbs of North America," by Steve Roper and Allen Steck, published in 1979. Much more than a simple list to follow, it celebrates the history, diversity, and essence of Brazilian mountaineering by bringing together the 50 most interesting routes in the country, ranging from intermediate grades (3rd to 7c BRA) – extending from Rio Grande do Sul to Ceará.
Full list of the 50 routes and the expression "golden crown"
The term GOLDEN CROWN refers to climbing two of the 50 classic routes in a single day. It was coined by André Perlatti and Alexandre Mesquita in June 2023 when they completed both Oba-Oba Nas Agulhas and Chaminé Idalício nas Prateleiras in a single day. Routes that qualify are indicated with the symbol 👑 followed by the numbering of possible combinations. Many of these climbs were completed by this author.
The 50 classic routes in Brazil are:
1. Pirate Parrot - 4th VIsup E2, 70m - Pico do Morcego, Bagé (RS)
2. Without Fear of Being Happy - 5th Vsup E3 D1, 115m - Pedra do Segredo, Caçapava do Sul (RS)
3. Bugio Solando - 5th VI E2 D1, 120m - Pico da Canastra, Canela/Três Coroas (RS)
4. Leviathan - VIsup E1, 25m - Morro da Cruz, Florianópolis (SC)
Sporty with interesting technical movement through the natural holes in the wall. 👑 (4+5)
5. Autumn Afternoons with Attila's Legacy - 4th V E1 D1, 95m - Ponta da Galheta, Florianópolis (SC)
Beautiful route on the coast of Santa Catarina with only 4 easy pitches. Mostly slab climbing. Without a doubt one of the most beautiful views of the 50. 👑 (4+5)
6. Bull in the Air - 6th VIsup E2 D1, 60m - Morro do Macaco, Bombinhas (SC)
7. Rusty - 5th VIIb A1 E1 D2, 140m - Abrolhos, Morretes (PR)
An important route in the Marumby complex, one of the cradles of national mountaineering. The first pitch climbed using aid climbing was the original cover of the 1st edition of Flávio and Cinthia Daflon's book.
8. Solanjaca - V E1, 25m - Morro do Anhangava, Quatro Barras (PR)
Sport route selected more for its historical importance than for the climbing itself, in the outskirts of Curitiba. 👑 (8+9)
9. Dalí pra Cima - VIIa E2, 30m - Salto São Jorge, Ponta Grossa (PR)
A route of unique plasticity due to its location less than 10m from a huge waterfall, a characteristic that also makes it complex to climb as its generally wet start necessitates aid climbing. To access it, rappelling from its top is required. 👑 (8+9)
10. Visual - VI E1, 50m - Cuscuzeiro, Analândia (SP). Also one of the cradles of mountaineering in São Paulo, "Cusco" could not be left out of the book. Recently, a large block used as a variant on its crux fell, now forcing the climber to follow the original line.
11. Vulcano - 4th V E1 D2, 190m - Pedra do Elefante, Andradas (MG )
Easy route, with the highlight being the second pitch through a large side crack of 3rd BRA (Brazilian grade).
12. Chresta with Normal - 3rd VI E2 D1, 140m - Pedra do Baú, São Bento do Sapucaí (SP)
An undeniable reason to be on the list of the 50 most classic routes in Brazil. One of the most frequently climbed routes due to its beauty and accessibility, in the cradle of São Paulo mountaineering. 👑 (10+11 or 12)
13. V for Vendetta - 5th VIIa E2 D2, 245m - Bauzinho, São Bento do Sapucaí (SP)
Route with an incredible first pitch, a dihedral on trad gear worthy of a 50-meter climb. Positive crux of 7a (technical). 👑 (11+10 or 12)
14. Elektra - 4th Place, E2 D2, 205m - Ana Chata, São Bento do Sapucaí (SP)
Beautiful route with easy access and two well-defined crux, the most obvious and athletic of which has good placements for mobile protection. 👑 (12+10 or 11)
15. Evolution - 5th VI E2 D3, 335m - Pedrão, Pedralva (MG)
Perhaps the least interesting of the 50 routes due to the lack of variation, except for the last two pitches. Predominantly crimping and slab climbing.
16. Oba Oba - 3rd VI E2 D1, 70m - Agulhas Negras, Itatiaia (RJ)
Due to the controversial inclusion in the top 50 list, given the numerous other important routes in the massif, the most iconic in Brazilian mountaineering. A well-defined crux of slab climbing right from the first pitch of the route. 👑 (18+19)
17. Idalício Chimney - 3rd Floor A1 E3 D1, 65m - Shelves, Itatiaia (RJ)
Clearly a route selected for its great historical importance in one of the most remarkable formations of the plateau. Tight crux in free climbing after an initial aid climb. 👑 (18+19)
18. Passagem dos Olhos - 4th IV C E2 D2, 145m - Pedra da Gávea, Rio de Janeiro (RJ)
One of the most picturesque on the list, both for its spectacular views and the design of the line, mostly lateral with a rappel in the middle to access the final section using artificial climbing.
19. Paredão Paraíso Perdido - 3rd V E3 D2, 185m - Pico da Tijuca, Rio de Janeiro (RJ)
Looking solely at the climb, I consider it the most complete and interesting of the classic routes in the Baixada Fluminense region.
20. K2 - 4th V E2 D1, 140m - Corcovado, Rio de Janeiro (RJ)
One of the most sought-after routes on the world-renowned mountain where it is located. At the time of publication of this article, the last pitch used is a variant due to construction work on Cristo that makes climbing the original line impossible. 👑 (18+19)
21. Via dos Italianos - 5º VI E2 D2, 265m - Pão de Açúcar, Rio de Janeiro (RJ)
Undoubtedly a classic of classics. This is the most frequently repeated route in the book due to its location in a tourist metropolis. The grade may mislead those unfamiliar with slab climbing in Rio de Janeiro. 👑 (18+19)
22. Luiz Arnaud - 2nd IIIsup E2 D1, 200m - Morro do Tucum, Niterói (RJ)
The easiest of the 50 routes with a beautiful view of Itacoatiara beach. 👑 (20+21)
23. Paredão Zezão - 3rd V E2 D2, 310m - George Guarisch Needle, Niterói (RJ)
Very beautiful route with an approach trail starting at the end of the descent from Luiz Arnaud. 👑 (20+21)
24. The Sum of All Fears - 6th VIsup A1/VIIb E3 D4, 725m - Cantagalo, Petrópolis (RJ)
It's worth going to Canta Galo a day before to familiarize yourself with the route, to understand the magnitude of the undertaking. Considered the most challenging of the 50 routes, it's mostly a slab climb. The final pitches are vertical, 5-star.
25. East Face with Maria Cebola - 4th IVsup A0 E3 D4, 240m - Dedo de Deus, Guapimirim (RJ)
The third and most "classic" route in the book, in the cradle of national mountaineering. Undisputedly one of the best in Brazil.
26. Normal of Agulha do Diabo - 4th Vsup C E3 D3, 230m - Agulha do Diabo, Guapimirim (RJ)
Considered one of the most beautiful climbing routes in the world, it stands out for its variety of moves, views, and long approach. At Aventura Alpina, we chose to do it in two days, including the approach, climb, and descent.
27. East Face of Pico Maior - 5º V A1/VIsup E3 D4, 670m - Pico Maior de Friburgo, Nova Friburgo (RJ)
Climbing in Salinas is to feel the energy of the pioneers on those iconic rock formations, one of the most beautiful mountains in Brazil, Pico Maior. The East Face is an adventure route, complete with chimneys, scrambling, and a respectable E3 difficulty. There are two routes recommended for rappelling because they are shorter and more direct: Cidade dos Ventos or Silvio Mendes.
28. CERJ - 5th V A1/VIsup E3 D3, 360m - Capacete, Nova Friburgo (RJ)
Beautiful line on the helmet, one of the most fun of the classic 50s, with a varied style, chimneys, holds, cracks, grip, it has everything and on top of that the incredible look.
29. Danse Macabre - Vsup E2, 30m Serra Lenheiro, São João del-Rei (MG)
30. Clandestino - 6º VIIa E2 D2, 175m - Serra da Cambota, Caeté (MG)
31. Obra do Acaso - 5º VI A1/VIIb E3 D4, 645m - Pico do Baiano, Catas Altas (MG)
32. Lamentations of an Addict - VIIb E2, 40m - Serra do Cipó, Serra do Cipó (MG)
The most difficult crux of all 50 routes. A sport route with a well-defined crux requiring athletic movement and technical skill.
33. Master Mister - 7th VIIb A1 E2 D3, 180m - Tabuleiro Waterfall, Conceição do Mato Dentro (MG)
34. Moonwalker - 5th Vsup E3 D4, 1,120m - Pedra Riscada, São José do Divino (MG)
The longest route in the entire book. Although it features a great deal of repetition of movements, its charm lies precisely in its length, which demands great teamwork.
35. Via Normal Pedra Azul - 3º IV E2 D2, 370m - Pedra Azul, Domingos Martins (ES)
36. Inferno na Torre - 5th V A1 E3 D2, 235m - Três Pontões, Afonso Cláudio (ES)
37. Hidden Face - 4º IV E3 D2, 300m - Pedra da Cara, Pancas (ES)
38. Cerrado Flower - VIsup E1, 25m - Belchior, Planaltina (GO)
39. Tendinitis - VI E1, 25m - Morro do Macaco, Pirenópolis (GO)
40. The Gardener - 6th VIIa E2 D3, 295m - Enxadão, Itatim (BA)
Itatim became known as the "Brazilian Yosemite," one of the best climbing areas on the planet. There are countless routes and styles in the caatinga of Bahia. The Jardineiro route couldn't be left out of the best in Brazil. A route visible from kilometers away thanks to the bromeliad gardening done by the first settlers.
41. Arco da Toca - 6º VIIa E2 D1, 185m - Morro da Toca, Itatim (BA)
Without a doubt, the most scenic of the 50 classic routes, climbed into the mouth of an immense cave 60m in diameter. One of the most beautiful in the world.
42. Paulicéia Baiana - 5th VI E2 D2, 150m - Pai Inácio, Palmeiras (BA)
A magnificent sandstone climb with the unique feature of not having a single fixed protection point, even at the belay stations. Abandoning it will inevitably require abandoning gear.
43. Costas Quentes - 5th VIIb E2 D1, 140m - Pedra da Bicuda, Brejo da Madre de Deus (PE)
44. Via Sacra - 3rd V E2 D2, 210m - Pedra da Boca, Araruna (PB). 👑 (44+45)
45. Temple Fracture - 3rd IVsup E2 D1, 90m - Pedra da Caveira, Araruna (PB). 👑 (44+45)
46. The Colonel and the Fisherman - 6º VIIa E2 D1, 110m - Serra Caiada, Serra Caiada (RN). 👑 (46+47)
47. Trojan Horse - 4th V A1/VIIb E3 D2, 280m - Pedra de São Pedro, Sítio Novo (RN). 👑 (46+47)
48. Cachalote - 4th V E3 D3, 475m - Serra Branca, Quixadá (CE)
49. Hostages of Biomechanics - 5th Vsup E2 D1, 50m - Galinha Choca, Quixadá (CE) 👑 (49+50)
50. Ziguezeira - 4th Vsup E2 D2, 265m - Pedra Riscada, Quixadá (CE). 👑 (49+50)
Who has completed all 50?
Completing the list is arduous work, both due to the physical and technical demands and the logistics. Starting from route #1 in Bagé-RS, climbing all of them in one overland trip would require an impressive 9,441 km, enough to go from Jundiaí-SP to Panama! Very few people have accomplished this feat due to this set of obstacles. This is the first public record, based on prior knowledge of climbers and direct consultation with the community. If anyone knows of more people who have completed it, please contact us via our email channel contato@aventuraalpina.com.br so we can publish a correction . There are only 7 as of the publication of this article.
Flávio Daflon (the author and pioneer)
Residence : Rio de Janeiro-RJ
Project start date : no information available
Finalization : no information
Duration : no information available
Gabriel Konzen (the first repetition)
Residence : Rio de Janeiro-RJ
Project start date : Jan/2018
Completion : Sept/2022
Duration : 4 years and 9 months
Janice Brandão (shortest time and 1st woman)
Residence : Rio de Janeiro-RJ
Project start date : July 2021
Completion : June 2023
Duration : 1 year and 11 months
Paloma Yamagata
Residence : Rio de Janeiro-RJ
Project start date : July 2021
Completion : March 2025
Duration : 3 years and 9 months
Cátiana dos Santos Fernandes
Residence : Santo André-SP
Project start date : Apr/2021
Completion : July 2026
Duration : 5 years and 3 months
Raphael Oliveira (first couple)
Residence : Jundiaí-SP
Project start date : September 2022
Completion : Aug/2026
Duration : 4 years
Cinthia Ogata (first couple)
Residence : Jundiaí-SP
Project start date : September 2022
Completion : Aug/2026
Duration : 4 years
About the list
It's worth remembering that the authors' selection was based on their own knowledge and consultation with local communities. It wasn't an easy task given the subjectivity involved. The climb's flexibility, environmental beauty, difficulty level, safety, and historical importance were all taken into account. Controversies will always exist in a list like this, but it's undeniable that all are important routes for Brazilian climbing. Without a doubt, this is the most important climbing route in Brazil of all time.
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