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Rock Climbing Course I (basic)
If it has not been carried out with Aventura Alpina, a test will be appliedpractice in order to evaluate the following concepts: double knot 8, handling of ATC and semi-automatic brakes, assembly of extended rappel with backup autobloc knot.

 

Good physical condition

With evaluation approved by a doctor and physical educator.

  • Glacier equipment (support axe, technical axe, crampon, double boot, ice protection)

  • Glacier crossing techniques

  • Vertical ascension techniques

  • Self-braking when falling

  • Alpine rigging

  • Ice anchors

Inevitably in the life of every mountaineer passionate about the Andes, Alpamayo will appear, an iconic mountain in the Cordillera Blanca in Peru and considered the most beautiful in the world. Although it is less than 6,000 meters above sea level (only 53 m to go), it is a high technical peak when compared to most of this altitude in South America. The summit day with an ascent of 400 meters of ice climbing at an angle of 70 to 90º makes this expedition different, a complete training experience in this type of terrain. Without a shadow of a doubt, one of the highlights in any mountaineer’s career.
 

DAY 0: Arrival in Peru - Huaraz (3,052m)

Meeting in Lima (sea level), capital of Peru, and transfer of approximately 7 hours to the city of Huaraz. Overnight in hotel included. Food not included.

DAY 1: Acclimatization climb in Hatun Machay (4,300m)

After breakfast at the hotel at 6:00 am, transfer for 2 hours to Hatun Machay, a famous rock climbing area, national cultural heritage as it has several archaeological remains of ancient people who inhabited the region. It will be a very important day for the expedition as it will play a very important role in our acclimatization strategy and we will take the opportunity to go over basic climbing procedures (see mandatory pre-expedition requirements). It will be a tiring day as it is one of the biggest elevation gains of the entire route. At the end of the afternoon return to your hotel in Huaraz. Breakfast and lunch included.

Accumulated elevation since Huaraz: 1,300 m

Distance: 0.5 km

Uptime: 8 – 10 am

DAY 2: Huaraz (3,052m) - Cashapampa (2,964m) - Llamacorral (3,750m)

Breakfast at the hotel at 5:00 am and 4-hour transfer to the start of the trail in the village of Cashapampa. After organizing what will be transported by the muleiros and meeting the support team for the expedition, we will start the trek around noon to our first camp, Llamacorral (3,750 m). Breakfast and dinner included.

Accumulated elevation since Cashapampa: 790 m

Distance: 10km

Uptime: 4 – 6h

DAY 3: Llamacorral (3,750m) - BC (4,300m)

We will take advantage of the acclimatization in Hatun Matay to go straight to the base camp (4,300m) to follow a slow and safe acclimatization strategy,  Breakfast, lunch and dinner included.  

Accumulated elevation: 529 m

Distance: 15km

Uptime: 6 – 8am

DAY 4: Glacier techniques training

Day of training in glacier crossing techniques, self-braking in case of a fall, use of crampons, support and technical axe, alpine roping and ice anchoring. We will take the opportunity to install the group's fixed ropes and thus facilitate the ascent to high camp the following day. Breakfast, lunch and dinner included.

Accumulated elevation:  900m

Distance: 12km

Uptime:6 - 8am  

DAY 5: BC (4,300m) - Camp 1 (5,560m)  

Behind only the summit day, this will be the second hardest of the entire expedition. Greater accumulated ascension by walking, we will cross the complex and steep glacier to the col between Alpamayo and Quitaraju. All your effort will be rewarded by the view considered the most beautiful of all the mountains in the world. We will have Alpamayo right in the "backyard" of our campsite. Breakfast and dinner included.

Accumulated elevation:  1,280 m

Distance: 5km

Uptime:7 - 9am  

DAY 6: Rest and extra day

A well-deserved day of rest that will serve as an extra day in case of bad weather the next day. Breakfast, lunch and dinner included.

Accumulated elevation:  0 m

Distance: 0 km

Uptime:0h  

DAY 7: Camp 1 (5,560m) - SUMMIT (5,947m) - Camp 1 (5,560)

Most anticipated day of the entire expedition. We will begin our final approach to the base of the French route early in the morning at 02:00. From this point onwards we will put all the knowledge acquired into practice on a long vertical climb of 400m with an average slope between 70 and 90º. After rappelling from the summit is finished, return to camp 1 for the night. Breakfast and dinner included. 

Accumulated elevation:  400m

Distance: 2km

Uptime:12 - 4pm  

DAY 8: Camp 1 (5,560m) - Jatunquisuar Camp (3,854m) 

Descent from camp 1 to intermediate camp at 3,854m. Breakfast and dinner included.

Accumulated elevation:  -1,700 m

Distance: 15 km

Uptime: 6 - 8am  

DAY 9: Camp Jatunquisuar (3,854m) - Cashapampa (2,964m) - Huaraz (3,052m)

Last day of trekking to the start of the trail in the village of Cashapampa. After a typical lunch, we will transfer back to the city of Huaraz. Overnight included. Breakfast, lunch and dinner included. 

DAY 10: Huaraz - Lima

Return to place of origin. Breakfast included.

INCLUDED IN

  • Huaraz stay (2 nights pre-expedition and one post)

  • Transport in and out of the mountains from Lima

  • 1 leading Brazilian guide in Portuguese, English and Spanish (up to 3 participants)

  • 1 auxiliary guide in Spanish for every two people (from 04 participants)

  • All basic safety equipment (seat, ropes, carabiners, helmet, brakes, straps)

  • Transport mules between camps for up to 15kg per person

  • Tents and thermal insulation in camps

  • Kitchen equipment

  • Breakfast days 1 to 10

  • Lunch days 1, 3, 4, 6 and 10

  • To have lunch days 2 to 9

  • 1 Captain Jack snack

  • Small trail snack during the approach to Alpamayo

  • Advice on purchasing equipment before your trip

  • First aid kit for collective use

  • Online satellite tracking

NOT INCLUDED

  • Air to Lima, Peru (round trip)

  • Transport in Lima to and from the airport

  • Lima and Huaraz food (except hotel breakfast)

  • Personal use items: sleeping bag, clothes, shoes, ice axes and crampons (possibility of renting glacier items in Huaraz)

  • Mandatory travel and rescue insurance

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